For Catherine, on freezing loaves: the key is airtightness. Regular plastic
wrap and grocery bags are (believe it or not!) pretty porous. You'll do
better with foil (though it punctures easily) or old-fashioned freezer wrap
(paper on the outside and plastic on the inside). Use a large enough piece
to fold over the lengthwise seam several times, leave enough on the ends for
a generous flap, and TAPE EVERYTHING with freezer tape. The easiest way is
to spring for freezer-weight zipper bags (the 2-gallon Jumbo hold 2-3 loaves
nicely). The bread doesn't get dehydrated (freezer burn) and you're happy
'cuz you can see what's in the bag. As for defrosting, I leave the loaf
uncovered on a wire cooling rack or, if the stove isn't busy, on one of my
gas burners (unlit, of course). You can thaw overnight in the 'frig, but
it's a kindness to wrap the loaf in a paper towel to absorb any excess
moisture (the "frost" that may have formed inside the bag when becoming
frozen). Breads frozen fresh will certainly keep 90 days, and I have
occasionally found one in the bottom of the freezer of uncertain heritage --
it's at least edible much longer than that; usable in croutons, strata, etc.
just about forever.
For Frank M on crispy rye crust: Certainly wash your loaves with egg white
beaten with a little water, that will help the "crisp" part. Brush the top
of your loaf before putting it in the oven, half-to-three-quarters of the way
through the baking, and about 10 minutes before it should be coming out. You
can put a final coat on immediately after transferring the loaf to the
cooling rack (this is the coat that crackles as the bread cools, so it
"speaks" to you!) Egg white browns very nicely. If it isn't yet brown
enough, you could experiment with a light touch of coffee powder or Kitchen
Bouquet -- we're cheating, but neither should add noticeable taste and might
help the aesthetics.
For Dan: Elephant Ears are really just great puff pastry in disguise.
Here's from the Joy Of Cooking (the older version). This goes on for a
while, have patience.
Puff Paste or Pate Feuilletee
It is best to use flour that has a high gluten content... To be "puffy" the
paste must be chilled, well-kneaded, and handled in such a way as to trap air
and, finally, baked in a high, thoroughly preheated oven. then the air
inside the dough expands with almost explosive effect. The surface on which
you work -- preferably marble -- the tools, the ingredients and your fingers
should be chilled throughout the operation, as it is necessary to hold the
fat, which is in very high proportion to the flour, in constant suspension.
The paste must not absorb undue moisture, but it must never dry out. It must
entirely envelop the butter. try not to let any cracks or tears develop, as
they release the air which is your only riser. If they do appear, mend them
at once to keep the butter encased. With these ideas firmly in mind, try
making this small quantity first. As you become experienced, double or
triple the recipe.
KNEAD: 1/4# sweet butter in ice water or under very cold running water. The
butter should become soft through kneading, but in no sense soft through
melting. Quite on the contrary--it must stay soft and chilled at the same
time throughout the operation. The final kneading of the butter is best done
on a marble slab; or the butter may be patted briskly in the hands until no
water flies. Shape it into an oblong, about 4x6x3/4". Wrap in foil and
chill for about 15 minutes.
MIX: 1/4# all purpose flour (must be weighed, NOT measured!) Make a ring on
a chilled smooth surface with the flour, allowing about a 6" hollow center.
Pour into the ring gradually -- meanwhile forming the flour into a ball with
it -- a mixture of
2 to 2 1/2 oz. ice water
1 tsp. lemon juice
1/4 tsp. salt
Knead the dough lightly until smooth. The whole process should not take more
than about 2 minutes (C: this is pretty much like making fresh pasta).
Cover the dough carefully and refrigerate it for 15 minutes or so. When you
remove the butter and dough from the refrigerator, they should be of about
the same consistency -- chilled but not hard.
Roll the dough into a very neat oblong measuring about 6 x 16" and less than
1/3" thick. At this point, the dough is somewhat elastic and may have to be
cajoled into the rectangle. Make the edges as even and thickness as constant
as possible. Quickly place the chilled butter pad about 1" from a short end
and the sides of the dough.
Fold the rest of the dough over the butter to make a pouch with one side
folded and the three others sealed. Seal the two layers firmly on all three
sides, pressing with the fingers or the sides of your hands.
With the narrow side toward you, roll the dough out evenly, being careful not
to break the layers nor force the roller in such a way that the edges of the
dough envelope become cracked. Should any opening develop, be sure to patch
it at once with a small piece of dough taken from the long sides. Keep the
pastry 6" in width while rolling and extend it to about 16" in length.
Now fold the pastry as if a business letter, into three equal parts
overlapped. Make sure that the corners match neatly. Compress it slightly
with the rolling pin. At this point, the dough should have a transparent
quality. The yellow of the butter should show through, but not break through
anywhere. Wrap the dough, now approximately 4x6x1", in foil and chill for 30
minutes. You have now made your first "turn" and, if you need a reminder,
you can professionally make one shallow finger tip imprint in one corner
before refrigerating. You can keep track of your turns by increasing the
finger prints after each rolling.
After the dough has chilled, remove it from the refrigerator and repeat the
rolling. Always roll with the narrow dimension of the dough toward you as
you work. Roll as before until the dough again measures about 6x16". Fold
once more in three equal parts. Make two finger tip impressions before
refrigerating, covered, for 30 minutes. Repeat the turns until you have six
prints in the dough. You may store the dough for 24 hours before baking;
wrap it first in foil and then in a dry towel. Refrigerate it.
If baking the same day, rest the dough (refrigerated) after the 6th turn for
30-90 minutes.
For Palm Leaves (Elephant Ears): roll out to 6x18" and cut a very thin strip
off of each edge to leave the layers free. Cover the center half liberally
with sugar (and spices if you like ... cinnamon, allspice, a little cloves,
coriander?? Also, finely ground nuts are a fine addition.) ... coarse sugar
is best. Fold the two ends into the middle; cover the center half liberally
with the sugar (and spice(s) and/or nuts) again, and again fold the ends into
the middle. You now have a fat, squat package.
Sometime earlier, you've prepared pans by sprinkling lightly with cold water,
and you have PREHEATED THE OVEN thoroughly to 500F for at least 20 minutes.
Using a VERY SHARP, SERRATED bread knife (wave-like or pointy serrations, not
a ham-slicer style knife), or a pizza cutter if yours is large enough to cut
the height, cut 1/2" slices from the folded edge to the open
(two-folded-edges) side. Place cut-side-down on the prepared pans, now you
can see the double-spiral pattern.
Bake 25-30 minutes, until it feels very light when lifted. Cool on wire
rack. Makes about 20.
This is Carolyn: the instructions sound totally overwhelming; however, if
you read them through a couple of times, you'll find it's not as horrifying
as it seems. And the pleasure of nibbling genuine puff pastry, very fresh,
is WELL worth the effort!