After my question, I heard from several people who use no or low salt in
their breads, and they seem happy with the results. Richard L. Walker
suggested I make three loaves: using no salt, 1 tsp. salt, and 2 tsp. salt,
and compare the results. That sounded nice and scientific, so yesterday I
performed the experiment.
I carefully tried to keep salt the only variable. I chose a straight-dough
recipe based on Julia Child's French baguettes which has only 5 ingredients
(the usual 4 plus a touch of rye). I weighed flour and water, used water
from a pitcher for constant temperature, and kneaded in the food processor
for identical times. The time between batches was less than 90 seconds,
and that way I could observe the loaves rising next to each other. I used
no salt, 1 tsp, and 2 1/4 tsp. (Julia's recipe). (She uses food processor,
but includes some hand kneading; I didn't hand knead).
When making the dough, those with more salt seemed a slight bit
stickier. I find it hard to believe the effect of salt could be that quick.
They seemed to rise at the same rate. That was a real surprise to
me. I've always heard that salt keeps yeast in check. That wasn't my
experience.
I baked the bread in dark baguette pans, switching positions right-to-left
and front-to-back to equalize any hot spots in my oven. They all had the
same oven-spring and baked to the same toasty brown color.
I served them still slightly warm from the oven (didn't want that to
happen, but time got away from me). They were equally crusty. The no-salt
had a denser texture and not as many holes. The other two had much better
texture--best texture was high-salt. I served all three to my husband,
having him start with no salt and working up. He did NOT know what the
experiment was about or what the variable was, just thought he had entered
heaven. First we tried them without food. Well, I'll be darned if he
didn't like Julia's best! He did NOT like the no-salt bread, felt it
tasted flat. It did. He thought the medium salt was good (it's what I
always make, and which I liked the best). But he liked the high-salt best.
I was surprised the high-salt wasn't nearly as salty-tasting as I'd
expected. After all, that's 125% more salt than we're used to. I thought
it would taste terrible, but it was quite good, actually.
Then we tried them with just wine. Similar results. Then with food. The
differences were not as apparent. And, predictably, when we spread them
with a salty olive spread, the no-salt bread tasted best.
Thanks, Richard, for inspiring such a fun day. I hope others will try the
experiment and report on their results. Meanwhile, I've got an awful lot
of French bread in my freezer...
Mary B.
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