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Re: Sourdough Starter

"Mike Avery" <mavery@mail.otherwhen.com>
Sun, 05 Jan 2003 11:26:58 -0700
v103.n002.7
On 29 Dec 2002 Irene Guevara <ireneguevaraharris@yahoo.com> wrote:

 > I also have a question -- I just received Nancy Silverton's Breads
 > from the La Brea Bakery. I'd love to make the grape starter, but I
 > live in Burkina Faso, West Africa, and grapes are extraordinarily rare
 > here. We do, however, have raisins (imported from France). Are there
 > any good alternatives to the grapes? I also have an excellent starter
 > (from Peter Reinhart's book) that's been going for several months --
 > could I just substitute this for the "white starter" in Silverton's
 > book?

You can certainly use Peter Reinhart's starter.

My strong suggestion is don't use grapes, cabbage leaves, raisins, or other 
flora or fauna in your starter.  And don't use baker's yeast either.

An established sourdough starter one of about 3 yeasts and one of about 5 
lacto bacillus bacteria have formed a symbiotic relationship.  (Dr. Michael 
Gaentzle, a German microbiologist and sourdough researcher says that he has 
never seen a stable culture that didn't have LActo bacillus san franciscus 
in it... the bacteria first identified in the San Francisco sourdough 
cultures, so the number of types bacteria that will work in a sourdough 
culture may be smaller than previously thought.) These organisms dominate 
by orders of magnitude.

The lactobacillus bacteria produces many chemicals that keep away, or kill, 
other bacteria.  They also raise the ph of the starter so most yeast can 
not survive in the culture.  In San Francisco Sourdough cultures, the yeast 
refrain from eating maltose (if memory serves), leaving it for the 
bacteria.  The dead yeast are, I am told, eaten by the bacteria.

Where am I going with all this?  Basically, the yeast that are on the 
surface of grapes, cabbage leaves, and so on are not the right kind of 
yeasts to start a stable culture.  These yeast will give you a great start, 
then the culture will slow down, and then speed up again.  What has 
happened is the yeast from the grapes die off, the culture slow, and then 
the yeast that should have started the culture come into their own. 
Basically, it takes less time to just start a culture with flour and be 
done with it.

Similarly, the ph of the starter is high enough that bakers yeast will not 
survive more than two refreshments if added to an active culture.  Also, 
before you can get a stable culture going, any bakers yeast in it will have 
to die off.

The last comment is that folklore has it that you "catch a culture from 
yeast in the air".  Sadly, this doesn't seem to be quite true.  When 
researchers sterilize the water and flour, the success rate is MUCH lower 
than when the flour and water are not sterilized.  Most current sourdough 
afficiandos feel that the critters are on the grain, and that using whole 
wheat or rye grain, stone ground, and unbleached enhances the chances of 
starting a culture.

Hope this helps,
Mike