Peter,
I am reporting my results of my attempt at making the pain a l'ancienne
using the original formula. I mixed up a very soft dough with very little
kneading using only flour and ice water. Refrigerated over night, added
yeast and salt the next morning and left it out for a 4-5 hour ferment.
Shaped and baked as usual. The results were inferior to the streamlined
method in your book. The baguettes did not have the reddish brown crust and
the delicious finish to the flavor was absent. So, I am back to the method
you describe in your book.
My next question is: What will happen if I retard the dough in the
refrigerator for two nights instead of one? Will I get more enzyme action?
Even more flavor?
My cousin, a chef, once went to Chicago to learn how to make pizza dough.
The method she learned was to mix a dough, flour, salt, and just a few
grains of yeast (like three grains for a loaf), everything at room
temperature. She then put dough in the fridge for three days. By the third
day it had risen in the refrigerator nicely. She then took it out, and, I
am not clear on what she did next, but most likely, left it out to warm up
for a while, shaped and baked.
I have tried this method several times and came out with some pretty nice
ciabatta. But I do not recall it ever having the carmelization or finish of
the pain a l'ancienne.
By the way, I am using a lot more water than what you have in your
formulas. Could my flour be much drier than what you are using?
Lissa Lasser