Hello Mary, Larry Klevans, and Everyone Else,
First, I would like to respond to the poisoning concern with my overnight
waffle recipe. I have made the recipe many times for my kids and family
and haven't lost anyone yet. This is such a time honored method of food
preparation-the slow fermentations of dairy products with some kind of
starter--that I had never been concerned about it. I keep meaning to
contact the experts at American Institute of Baking to find out the exact
microbiology, and will hopefully do that this week and let everyone know
the answer. I appreciate all the positive responses, but I also think that
questioning recipes is a good thing.
To Mary, who would like to know how to more intensely flavor fast rising
breads: Do what the Europeans do - bake your breads until they are
extremely dark. Flavor in bread comes from three main areas, the flour,
its fermentation, and the browning reaction. The browning reaction is
really critical to rich bread flavor and can make up for many other sins.
So use the best flour you can buy, make your favorite crusty-style bread
using about 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast per pound of flour, and give
it an extra long and intense bake on a baking stone. Prof. Calvel's rule
was always "bake it until you think it's done then give it 10 minutes
more." I think you will be amazed. Let me know if you need such a recipe.
Finally to Larry Klevans, the following recipe will appear in my new (so
far unnamed) book about challah and other traditional Jewish Breads. It's
my own recipe, unlike a lot in this book, which I have collected from
bakers. I would love to hear how it works out for people.
Slow Rise Whole-Wheat Challah
Skill level: intermediate
Yields: 2 one-and a quarter-pound (600 g) breads
Time required: about 20 hours, with about 8 hours required on baking day
Recipe synopsis: Make a preferment and let it ferment for 8 to 12
hours. Mix the dough, let the dough rise for 4 1/2 hours, shape the dough
and let the loaves proof for 2 hours. Bake the bread for 1 hour.
If you enjoy more experimental bread baking, this is a really fun recipe
and it makes a tangy, egg-free, crusty challah.
The evening before baking, you make a pre-ferment - a sort of starter -
adding only a tiny amount of yeast to flour and water. The next morning,
you mix a dough adding no additional yeast, using only the pre-ferment as a
leaven. The dough ferments very slowly and develops a rich acidity similar
in flavor to a very light sourdough that beautifully enhances the
whole-wheat flour's flavor. This is another bread that needs a long, hot
bake for the best flavor and crust. I have included a starch glaze in
keeping with the recipe's egg-less-ness.
Whole-wheat flour varies tremendously from mill to mill, so be prepared to
adjust the dough's consistency. Be sure the flour you use has been
recently milled - it goes rancid very quickly - and check its protein content:
it should be between 13-14%, or 4 g protein per 30 g serving on the
nutritional label. Whole white-wheat flour is much lighter and sweeter
than the heartier, more astringent whole red-wheat flour (ordinary
whole-wheat flour), and is often enjoyed even by picky eaters.
For the Pre-Ferment
1/8 teaspoon yeast
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons (100 g, 3.5 oz) warm water
About 1 1/4 cups (160 g, 6 oz) bread flour
For the Final Dough
About 3 2/3 cups (500 g, 17.6 oz) whole-wheat flour
1 1/2 cups (350 g, 12 oz) water
All the preferment
2 1/4 teaspoons (14 g, 0.5 oz) table salt
1/4 cup (55 g, 1.9 oz) oil
1 tablespoon (20 g, 0.7 oz) mild honey
Or 2 tablespoons (20 g, 0.7 oz) brown sugar
For the Cornstarch or Potato Starch Glaze
1/3 cup (80 ml) cold water
1 teaspoon (5 ml) cornstarch or potato starch
THE EVENING BEFORE BAKING
MIXING THE PRE-FERMENT
The evening before baking, sprinkle the yeast over the water, and then
whisk it in. Let the yeast rehydrate for 5 minutes, then stir in the
flour. Knead this firm dough until it is smooth. Place the dough in a
small container and seal it with its lid or plastic wrap. Let the
pre-ferment ferment until it has tripled in volume and is just starting to
deflate, about 8-12 hours.
BAKING DAY
MIXING THE AUTOLYSE
In the work bowl of a stand mixer, add the whole-wheat flour and, using the
paddle attachment, stir in the warm water using low speed until the dough
is well combined. Let the dough autolyse, covered, for 20 minutes.
MIXING THE DOUGH
Add the pre-ferment, the salt, oil, honey or sugar to the dough and mix the
dough with a dough hook on medium speed for about 5 minutes, or until it
cleans the sides of the bowl and is very smooth. Add at least a tablespoon
or two of water if the dough is very firm, or at least a tablespoon or two
of flour if the dough is impossibly sticky and does not clean the sides of
the bowl. Because whole-wheat flour is so variable, be prepared to adjust
the consistency of the dough. This dough should feel very sticky initially,
then become smooth, soft, dry and easy to knead after sufficient kneading.
FERMENTING THE DOUGH
Place the dough in the clean warm bowl and cover it with plastic wrap. Let
the dough ferment for about 4 1/2 hours or until it doubles in bulk.
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Cover a large baking sheet with parchment paper or oil it. Divide the dough
in half, braid or shape them as desired, position them seam-side down on
the prepared sheet or cake pans, and cover them well with plastic wrap. Let
the loaves proof for about 2 hours, or until they triple in bulk. One hour
before baking the bread, position an oven rack on the second to top shelf
and remove all shelves above it. If making free-form loaves: place a baking
stone or a second baking sheet on it and preheat the oven to 425 F (220 C,
gas mark 7).
BAKING THE LOAVES
When the loaves have tripled, do not push back when gently pressed with
your finger but remain indented, they are ready to bake. Spray or paint
them with water, then bake them for about 60 minutes. After 40 minutes of
baking, switch the loaves from side to side so that the breads brown
evenly. When the loaves are very well browned, remove them from the oven
and let them cool on a rack.
PREPARING THE GLAZE AND GLAZING THE BAKED BREADS
As the breads are baking, combine the starch and cold water in a small
pan. Heat the mixture over low heat until it boils, thickens and
clarifies. The glaze should be thick but spreadable; add a tablespoon or
two of water if you need to thin it. The glaze can also be microwaved on
high power for 1 minute. Whisk it, and then cook it for 15 seconds more or
until clear. When the loaves are just out of the oven, brush them with a
thin layer of the glaze. As soon as it is dry, brush them with a second
layer of glaze for a high shine.