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Bread in paris - further thoughts and replies

"Diane Purkiss" <dianepurkiss@btinternet.com>
Tue, 22 Nov 2005 06:22:38 -0000
v105.n048.4
LKR <cowandpig@qwest.net> wrote:
>Dear Diane,
>Thank you for the wonderful and thorough report. You really 
>sacrificed, I see. [g]

Yes, it was noble of me, wasn't it?  I know no greater pleasure than 
to get up early and walk to a just-opening boulanger.

>>3.  Le Boulanger du Monge
>>As excellent as ever.  Magnificent bagueete - best I had.
>
>Where is this bakery located?

It's in Rue Monge, in the 5th.  The bakery is in the jardins des 
Plantes quartier, down near Censier-Daubentin metro.  We usually stay 
on the Ile st Louis, and it's about a 15 minute walk from there.

>>4.  Poujauran in the 7th, Rue Cler area.
>>Wonderful novelty breads, like a baguette de sept cereales and good 
>>pain au figues (how do the French make this so light?  Basic breads 
>>were good but not sensass.
>
>Do you have any sense of what the seven cereals were? Were they a 
>large part of the dough and was it white dough? This sounds like fun 
>to try to replicate.

Creamy dough, and among the cereals were definitely some seeds and 
whole grains.  I thought there were sunflower seeds, oat and wheat 
grains, and corn in the flour mix that coloured it.  Next time I'll ask!

>>6.  Le Grenier a pain, rue d'Italie 13th.
>>The review in Palmare said croassants were grreat, but it was the 
>>bread that was outstanding; magnificent baguette a l'ancienne
>
>What is this type of baguette like?

Ah, you must read Steven Kaplan for the detail, but it has a creamy 
crumb (not parched white), a crust not unlike but thinner and 
cracklier than a boule, soft rich forest-brown with a dusting of 
flour, an irregular banette shape with a single slash.  I ADORE it 
with raw butter.

>>Also worthy of note was the dark, voluptuous, almost unctuous olive 
>>bread at Flora in Av George V, a restaurant well worth it 
>>anyway.  Everywhere else also had nice bread.  Memorable walnut 
>>bread with cheese at Hiramatsu.
>
>What was the dough of the olive bread like? What sort of olives did 
>it have? This also sounds like a good project.

I'm KEEN.  She does have a cookbook, but the bread wasn't in 
it.  Offhand, I'd say from the thick unctuous deep almost black crumb 
that pureed olives and a LOT of olive oil were involved.  Like black 
velvet.  Not too dense, either.

>Did you go to Poilane?  My personal favorite.

It's funny, but I never do in Paris - well, not never, but usually 
not when I'm only there for a few days - because there's one in 
London, so it's less of a novelty.  I do love his bread, of course I 
do, but I've had it quite often and I'm in search of the new, always.

Week after next, I'll be ready to tell all about bread in Venice.  I 
note to my surprise that Faith Willinger says it's mainly not good 
because you can't make good bread in a damp climate.  Huh, thought I, 
tell that to San Francisco, but is she right?