Bread-Bakers v106.n014.3

The bigger question in my mind is "why more than one rise?" I mean, 
why let the yeast put all that gas in the dough...and then squish it 
out?! (I have heard--but can't verify--that some large commercial 
non-artisan bakeries use only one rise, i.e., uses processes that 
shape the bread immediately after kneading. These would be soft 
"Wonderbread-type" loaves.

As best I can tell, the main purposes of the first rise is to allow 
extra time for the development of flavor and for the rising action to 
develop the gluten beyond what occurred during kneading. (Some of 
this also occurs during the preferment time, if any.

I have also heard that the punch down after the first rise 
mechanically mixes up the dough to allow the yeast cells to be 
exposed to more "food," since each cell has probably eaten up all the 
food nearby. Also heard that the punch down equalizes the temperature 
throughout the dough mass.

If my theory is correct then the purpose of the three rise method you 
mentioned is probably to allow yet more time for flavor development.

Further, if my theory is correct, then the old adage, "let rise till 
doubled in bulk" is not correct. We really don't care about how much 
gas has been accumulated in the dough. We can probably pick the 
duration of the first rise solely by the clock (assuming that the 
temperature of the dough is correct).

Thoughts anyone?

Allen
home baker
San Francisco