The number of rises usually depends on the type of bread being made
and what type of structure that bread has.
Repeated rises with a thorough punch down in between creates a loaf
that is soft with an even, fine crumb (this is in contrast to artisan
breads which are highly porous with open crumbs).
For example, Brioche dough requires proofing in the fridge (to keep
the butter from leaching out, as well as for flavor development) for
three rises, and after each rise, the dough is taken out of the
fridge and then folded in the 3-fold letter style. This type of
handling creates the finely textured, soft crumb that brioche is famous for.
In contrast are the artisan breads. At Panera, our artisan breads are
high hydration doughs that are thoroughly kneaded once and then
immediately placed in their molds. The breads are then retarded at 55
F for 24 hours. This is all the proofing they get. They are then
immediately taken from the fridge to the deck ovens for baking. This
type of handling creates the open crumb and porous texture that good
artisan loaves are known for.
In my experience, it is mostly enriched breads (those with sugar,
butter and/or oil, and eggs) that require multiple rises. Lean doughs
usually do not.
Roxanne