Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 08:59:10 GMT -------------- BEGIN bread-bakers.v107.n035 -------------- 001 - Paul Subject: more no knead recipes Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2007 03:36:42 -0600 http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/11/27/AR2007112700646.html All recipes are by Nancy Baggett (c) The Washington Post Nancy Baggett's most recent baking book is "The All-American Dessert Book." She can be reached through her Web site: ************************************************************************** Slow Rise And Shine: Bread Made Easy By Nancy Baggett Special to The Washington Post Company Wednesday, November 28, 2007 I grew up in a baking family. As far back as I can remember, I baked with my mother and grandmother, enjoying the creativity, camaraderie and sense of accomplishment that came from turning out cookies, cakes, breads and pies. Later, in my own kitchen, I carried on their traditions, loving the feeling of tranquillity and connectedness to the past, and the extraordinary fresh-from-the-oven aromas and flavors. This lifetime of pleasure has convinced me that those who don't bake are truly missing out, so I'm always campaigning to bring others into the fold. Cookies, because they are simple, quick and forgiving, are an easy sell; bread baking is another story. What with the kneading, worries about the yeast and other muss, fuss and time involved, bread baking is often perceived as too daunting. But I'm excited to report that all the obstacles that deter folks from enjoying one of life's ultimate foods -- breathtakingly fresh home-baked bread -- have evaporated. Anyone can make well-flavored, fine-textured yeast bread easily, conveniently and, so long as the yeast is fresh, completely reliably. As Dave Barry might say, I am not making this up. One key to the breakthrough is the "highly active," fast-rising yeasts that came on the market in the 1980s. Though originally named and ballyhooed for their leavening speed, the easier-mixing and -handling properties of the new strains are more important. Those characteristics make it possible to eliminate the fussy, tricky "proofing" process, in which old-fashioned cake or dry yeast must be combined with water warm enough to activate it but not so hot as to kill it. Instead, the modern RapidRise yeast from Fleischmann's and Quick-Rise from Red Star (as well as the yeasts sold for bread machines) can be stirred directly into dry ingredients, then combined with room-temperature or even very cold water. The upshot: Home bakers never risk the fate of my son and daughter-in-law when they tried their first bread -- a pizza dough -- which simply lay there dense and flat because of the untimely demise of the yeast. "The water must have been too hot," my son, David, reported dejectedly. "We kept waiting, hoping the dough was rising a little, but it never did." The need to knead yeast breads has also put off many home bakers, but now, thanks to a clever method worked out by New York baker Jim Lahey and publicized last fall by New York Times columnist Mark Bittman, kneading can be skipped, too. The cook simply stirs together the basic bread components, including a minuscule amount of the fast-rising yeast, then leaves the bowl unattended at cool room temperature for a long, slow rise of 12 to 18 (or sometimes 18 to 24) hours. There's no kneading and only enough stirring to combine the ingredients. Next, the puffy, highly aerated dough -- with its texture-enhancing gluten somehow magically developed -- is deflated, shaped and set aside for a much shorter (final) rise, then baked. Because the Lahey recipe focuses specifically on creating a very crusty, artisan-style French bakery bread, his method does call for some hand-shaping (and associated kitchen mess), as well as for baking the dough in a heavy, preheated, lidded pot. By simplifying Lahey's approach a bit and adapting a cold-rise technique from Parisian baker Philippe Gosselin (featured in Peter Reinhart's award-winning "The Bread Baker's Apprentice"), I've been able to produce an exceptionally flavorful French boule requiring zero muss or fuss. I've also adapted the slow-rise, no-knead approach to come up with a variety of excellent and easy home-style breads, including the all-purpose light wheat loaf, cinnamon-raisin bread (great for toast!), butter rolls and hearty caraway-beer loaf. All of these recipes are flexible enough to fit into most work schedules; are completely doable for even novice bread bakers; and require nothing more than a very large bowl, a big, sturdy spoon and a loaf pan, muffin tin or pot for baking. They also offer the convenience option of a shortened second rise for those who wish to finish the dough preparation after work and have fresh bread to serve for dinner. In traditional bread recipes, kneading is vital because it develops gluten. The pulling-pushing action continuously exposes new flour particles to water, encouraging the formation of the strong, elastic gluten strands that give yeast bread good texture. So, how can kneading just be jettisoned? Actually, kneading is occurring "cell by cell," explains Shirley O. Corriher, an Atlanta-based food chemist whose highly regarded culinary science tome, "CookWise," will be followed by "BakeWise" next year. "It may not seem like much is happening, but the dough's spongy, airy appearance at the end of the rise is a tip-off," she says. "As the yeast grows and releases carbon dioxide, the mixture bubbles and bounces the gliadin and glutenin proteins around and, eventually, they find each other." She adds that the relatively soft, wet doughs used in most no-knead bread recipes hydrate the yeast cells and the two gluten-forming proteins particularly well, facilitating extra bubbling and the hooking up of the gluten-forming molecules. Despite their names, RapidRise and Quick-Rise yeasts are actually at their best when employed in a slow rise, which proves that first applications aren't necessarily the best ones. I put these products through a lot of testing when they first appeared and validated that, by loading a recipe with yeast organisms and revving them up with extra-warm rising environments, you can produce a finished loaf in about two hours. But often, there's not enough flavor accompanying the fluff. For the immensely rich, deep, pleasing yeastiness that has made people crazy over homemade bread since time immemorial, at least the first rise must be long and slow. The fact that a long, cool rise also dispatches the kneading is, to mix metaphors, just gravy. Aaron Clanton, a baking instructor at the American Institute of Baking in Manhattan, Kan., isn't surprised by my findings. He cites studies showing that a rising environment of 70 F or cooler (a slow rise) promotes the development of the acids, alcohols and other components that give yeast bread its enticing flavor and aroma. In contrast, a 105 to 110 F environment (a fast rise) encourages mostly the production of the carbon dioxide that puffs the dough. "If I'm in a hurry and it's more convenient, I sometimes use a warm second rise to get things finished faster, but a slow first rise is essential for good-tasting bread," Clanton says. For those who grew up proofing yeast, kneading, hand-shaping and completing the other time-honored steps of traditional yeast baking, the no-knead method may seem clinical and bloodless. I particularly miss the smooth, soothing feel of yeast dough in my hands. But I like not having to clean stubborn bits of dough or a shower of flour off my countertops. I also love the convenience of starting a dough in just a few spare minutes, then coming back many hours later to find it airy, fragrant, fully kneaded and ready for a second rise. The ability to squeeze yeast baking into my busy schedule and frequently treat myself and my family to the wonderful smell and taste of a fresh loaf definitely makes up for the tactile loss. I always say I'll go back to the old-fashioned way -- just as soon as I can find the time. Tip: Storing Bread: Homemade bread must be stored carefully because, lacking preservatives, it stales and molds readily. (Unlike most cheese molds, some bread molds are toxic.) Once the bread has completely cooled, pack it airtight in a resealable plastic food storage bag or wrap it tightly in aluminum foil to prevent moisture loss. Set it in a cool, dry spot, but not in the refrigerator, for up to 2 days. Although refrigeration retards molding, it actually speeds bread staling by causing rapid retrogradation, a process that crystallizes the starch molecules. To store bread longer than 2 days, freeze it in a heavy-duty/freezer resealable plastic food storage bag for up to 2 months. Some retrogradation will slowly occur, but it can be mostly reversed by wrapping the thawed bread in foil and reheating it in a 400 F oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Refresh individual slices or rolls by wrapping them in a dish towel and microwaving them on 50 percent power for about 30 seconds. Nancy Baggett's most recent baking book is "The All-American Dessert Book." She can be reached through her Web site,http://www.kitchenlane.com. ************************************************************************** Slow-Rise, No-Knead Light Wheat (or White) Bread From cookbook author and expert baker Nancy Baggett The Washington Post, November 28, 2007 Summary: If you love homemade bread but avoid yeast baking because it seems scary, complicated or labor-intensive, try this new slow-rise, no-knead recipe. It allows you to make amazingly easy and good yeast bread with a few basic ingredients and without appliances -- no bread machine, heavy-duty mixer or food processor. Nor are any special bread making skills involved; stir the ingredients together, set the dough aside on the counter and forget it for 12 to 18 hours. The long, slow rise is vital, developing not only flavor but the gluten that normally would be produced by kneading. The next step is to stir the dough again, turn it out into a loaf pan and let it rise till it's ready to bake. The reward: a large, light, fine-textured loaf that will make you proud. The only other key to success is to buy the "highly active" type of bread yeast and to check the expiration date on the packet or container to ensure that it is still active enough to use. The type needed comes dry in packets or jars labeled "rapid rise", "quick rise", "bread machine" or "instant". Also, don't think that more yeast is better; use only the 1/8 teaspoon the recipe calls for. The bread will keep at room temperature for 2 or 3 days. Freeze for longer storage. Makes 1 large loaf (14 to 16 slices) Ingredients: For the first stage 3 cups (15 ounces) white flour or white bread flour 1 cup (5 ounces) whole-wheat flour (or substitute 1 cup white flour to make an all-white bread) 2 1/2 tablespoons sugar 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1/8 teaspoon "rapid rise," "quick rise," "bread machine" or "instant" yeast 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, or 1 1/2 tablespoons corn oil, plus extra melted butter or oil for coating the dough top 2 cups room-temperature water For the second stage 1 teaspoon melted unsalted butter or corn oil for coating loaf top 1/2 tablespoon whole-wheat flour, for garnish Directions: For the first stage: Thoroughly combine the flours, sugar, salt and yeast in a 3-quart or larger bowl; mix with a large spoon. Add the butter or oil and water, stirring vigorously until well combined; the dough may be stiff. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a greased flexible spatula. Drizzle the dough top with about a teaspoon of melted butter or oil; use a pastry brush or your fingertips to spread it evenly over the dough. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and set aside at a room temperature of about 70 F or cooler for 12 to 18 hours. For the second stage: Vigorously stir the dough until it deflates. Generously coat a 9-by-5-inch or similar large (1 3/4- to 2-quart) loaf pan with nonstick cooking oil spray. Turn out the dough into the pan. Drizzle the melted butter or vegetable oil over the loaf top, then spread it out with a pastry brush or your fingertips until the surface is evenly coated and looks smooth. Sift about 1/2 tablespoon flour evenly over the loaf top. Cover the pan tightly with plastic wrap. For a "regular" rise: Let stand at room temperature for 45 to 75 minutes or until the dough nearly reaches the pan rim. (The time will vary considerably depending on the temperature of the room and the length of the first rise.) Gently remove the plastic. Let it stand until the dough top rises 1/4 inch above the rim. For a "quick" rise: Place a microwave-safe cup containing 1 cup of water in a rear corner of the microwave oven. Microwave for 2 minutes, until the water almost boils. Put the loaf in the microwave oven as far from the water as possible. Let it rise 30 to 50 minutes, or until the dough nears the pan rim. Gently remove the plastic. Continue the rise until the dough top is 1/4 inch above the rim. For baking: Position an oven rack in the middle third of the oven; preheat to 425 F. Gently transfer the pan to the oven; jarring can cause deflating. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until the loaf is well browned on top and sounds hollow when thumped with a finger. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool for several minutes, then run a knife around the loaf to loosen. Transfer the loaf to the rack and let it cool completely before cutting it or storing in an airtight container. 142 calories, 2g fat, n/a saturated fat, n/a cholesterol, 219mg sodium, 26g carbohydrates, 2g dietary fiber, 4g protein. ************************************************************************** Slow-Rise, No-Knead Soft White (or Soft Light Wheat) Rolls From baking expert and cookbook author Nancy Baggett The Washington Post, November 28, 2007 Summary: These light, rich rolls are baked in muffin tins, which eliminates the skill and time normally needed for shaping rolls. They don't require kneading, either, because the long, slow first rise develops both the gluten and the appealing yeasty flavor. The recipe requires two 12-cup muffin tins with standard-size cups or two 6-cup muffin tins with "Texas-size" cups (or one tin of each size). The standard cups need to be about 2 3/4 inches across at the top and have a volume of about 1/3 cup when completely filled; Texas-size cups should be 3 1/2 to 3 3/4 inches across and have a volume of at least 3/4 cup when filled. You can determine the volume by filling a muffin cup to the top with water, then checking the quantity with a measuring cup. The rolls will keep at a cool room temperature for up to 2 days. Wrap well and freeze for longer storage. Reheat, wrapped in aluminum foil, in a low oven (or wrapped in paper towels on low power in the microwave) before serving. Makes 24 small rolls or 12 large rolls Ingredients: for the first stage 2 1/2 cups (12 1/2 ounces) white flour or 2 cups white flour and 1/2 cup whole wheat flour), plus more for dusting (optional) 1 1/4 teaspoons salt 1/4 teaspoon "rapid rise," quick rise," "instant," or "bread machine" yeast 1 1/2 cups room-temperature water Corn oil or other flavorless vegetable oil for brushing dough top for the second stage 8 tablespoons (1 stick) melted unsalted butter 6 1/2 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons powdered milk 1 large egg, at room temperature 1 1/4 cups (6 1/4 ounces) white flour or whole-wheat flour, plus 1 tablespoon for dusting Directions: For the first stage: Thoroughly combine the flour or flours, salt and yeast in a 3- to 4-quart or larger bowl; mix with a large spoon. Add the water, stirring vigorously until evenly incorporated. Use a greased flexible spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Drizzle the dough top with about 1/2 teaspoon of vegetable oil (no need to measure); use a pastry brush or your fingertips to spread it evenly over the dough and up the sides of the bowl. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and set aside at a room temperature of about 70 F or cooler for 12 to 18 hours. For the second stage: Use a fork to beat together 6 tablespoons melted butter, the sugar and powdered milk in a medium bowl until well blended. Beat in the egg until well incorporated. Vigorously stir the mixture into the raised dough until it deflates and the ingredients are well blended; the dough will seem rubbery. Vigorously stir in the 1 1/4 cups flour until thoroughly incorporated. (Second-stage mixing may be completed in a heavy-duty stand mixer, if desired. Transfer the raised dough to the mixer bowl; complete the mixing steps on low speed using the paddle.) Generously grease 12 "Texas-size" muffin tin cups or 24 standard-size muffin cups, or coat them thoroughly with nonstick cooking oil spray. Using a well-greased 1/4-cup measure for large muffin cups and a 1/8-cup measure (or coffee scoop) for small muffin cups, place a scoopful of dough in each cup. Divide any leftover dough evenly among the cups. Use 2 tablespoons total of the melted butter to drizzle over all the roll tops. (Use your fingertips to spread out the butter and smooth each top until the dough surface looks smooth. Sift a little flour over each cup; cover the muffin tins with plastic wrap. For a "regular" rise: Let the dough stand at room temperature for 1 to 1 3/4 hours or until the dough nearly reaches the cup rims. (The time will vary considerably depending on the temperature of the room and the length of the first rise.) Remove the plastic wrap. Let stand until the dough rises just above the rims. For a "quick" rise: Fill a microwave-safe container with 1 cup of the water and set it far to one side of the microwave oven. Microwave on high for about 2 minutes, until the water almost boils. Put a muffin tin in the microwave oven as far from the water as possible. Let rise 30 to 45 minutes or until the dough nears the cup rims. Remove the plastic wrap. Let stand until the dough rises just above the rims. To bake: Position an oven rack in the middle third of the oven; preheat to 400 F. Gently transfer the muffin pans to the middle oven rack; jarring can cause deflating. Bake about 15 to 18 minutes for smaller rolls and 17 to 21 minutes for larger rolls or until well browned on top and hollow sounding when thumped with a finger. Transfer the pans to wire racks and let cool just slightly, then run a knife around the rolls to loosen. Sift a little flour over the rolls just before serving, if desired. The rolls are best served warm. 264 calories, 9g fat, 5g saturated fat, 38mg cholesterol, 256mg sodium, 41g carbohydrates, 2g dietary fiber, 6g protein. ************************************************************************** Slow-Rise, No-Knead Cinnamon-Raisin Bread From cookbook author and expert baker Nancy Baggett The Washington Post, November 28, 2007 Summary: This bread involves far less muss and fuss than old-fashioned yeast breads and is flexible enough to fit into most schedules. The essential long, slow first rise (never skimp on the minimum 12 hours, or the second rise will take much longer than it should) can proceed completely unattended during the workday or night. Because this method skips the traditional, slightly tricky step of combining the yeast with water of a specific temperature, it's very reliable. Even those new to yeast baking can succeed on the first try. The loaf is attractive, homey and sweet, but not overly so. It's great for breakfast or brunch and makes a fine gift. It's best simply sliced and served warm. It will keep at a cool room temperature for up to 3 days. Freeze for longer storage. Reheat, wrapped in foil in a low oven (or wrapped in paper toweling on low power in the microwave), before serving. Note that because of the weight of the cinnamon and raisins in the dough, the second rise will take longer than for most other slow-rise yeast loaves. Makes 1 large loaf (12 to 16 slices) Ingredients: For the first stage 3 1/4 cups (generous 1 pound) flour 1 1/4 teaspoons salt 1/8 teaspoon "rapid rise," "quick rise," "bread machine" or "instant" yeast 1 3/4 cups room-temperature water Corn oil or other flavorless vegetable oil for brushing dough top For the second stage 4 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1/2 cup sugar 1 large egg, at room temperature 2/3 cup dark seedless raisins 2/3 cup (3 1/3 ounces) flour 6 1/2 tablespoons sugar combined with 1 1/2 tablespoons ground cinnamon Directions: For the first stage: Thoroughly combine the flour, salt and yeast in a 3- to 4-quart or larger bowl; mix with a large spoon. Add the water, stirring vigorously until evenly incorporated; the mixture may be stiff. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a greased flexible spatula. Drizzle the dough top with about 1/2 teaspoon of oil (no need to measure); use a pastry brush or your fingertips to spread it evenly over the dough surface and up sides of the bowl. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and set aside at a room temperature of about 70 F or cooler for 12 to 18 hours For the second stage: Use a fork to beat together 4 tablespoons of the melted butter and the sugar in a medium bowl until well blended. Beat in the egg and raisins until incorporated; let stand for 5 minutes. Vigorously stir the butter mixture into the dough until the dough deflates and the ingredients are evenly incorporated; the dough will seem rubbery. Vigorously stir the flour into the dough until thoroughly incorporated. Lightly stir in about 2/3 of the cinnamon-sugar mixture; streaks should remain. (Second-stage mixing may be completed in a heavy-duty stand mixer, if desired. Transfer the raised dough to the mixer bowl; complete the mixing steps on low speed using the paddle.) Generously grease a very large loaf pan (9-by-5-inch or other 1 3/4- to 2-quart pan) or coat thoroughly with nonstick cooking oil spray. Turn out about a third of the dough into the pan. Smooth the surface with a greased flexible spatula. Sprinkle about half of the remaining cinnamon sugar mixture over the surface. Repeat with another third of the dough, then sprinkle with all but 1/2 tablespoon of the remaining cinnamon sugar. Add the remaining dough, then smooth the surface with a flexible spatula. Drizzle the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of melted butter over the top. Use a pastry brush or your fingertips to spread the butter over the surface until the surface is evenly coated and looks smooth. Sprinkle the remaining cinnamon-sugar over the top. Cover the pan with plastic wrap. For a "regular" rise: Let rise at room temperature for 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 hours or until the dough nearly reaches the pan rim. (The time will vary considerably depending on the temperature of the room and the length of the first rise.) Remove the plastic wrap; let stand until the dough rises 1/4 inch above the rim. For a "quick" rise: Place a microwave-safe cup containing 1 cup of water in a rear corner of the microwave oven. Microwave for 2 minutes, until the water almost boils. Put the loaf in the microwave oven as far from the water as possible. Let it rise 30 to 50 minutes or until the dough nearly reaches the pan rim. Gently remove the plastic. Continue the rise until the dough top is 1/4 inch above the rim. For baking: Position an oven rack in the middle third of the oven; preheat to 400 F. Gently transfer the pan to the oven; jarring can cause deflating. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until the loaf is well browned on top and sounds hollow when thumped with a finger. (If the top begins to brown too rapidly, cover with aluminum foil for the last 15 to 20 minutes of baking.) Transfer to a wire rack and let cool for several minutes, then run a knife around the loaf to loosen. Transfer the loaf to the rack and let it cool completely before cutting it or storing in an airtight container. 189 calories, 2g fat, 1g saturated fat, 16mg cholesterol, 188mg sodium, 40g carbohydrates, 1g dietary fiber, 4g protein. ************************************************************************** Slow-Rise, No-Knead Rustic Caraway-Beer Bread From cookbook author and baking expert Nancy Baggett The Washington Post, November 28, 2007 Summary: Excellent served along with many cheeses, smoked meats and hearty stews, this full-bodied but not heavy bread tastes much like traditional rye breads containing caraway seeds. However, because rye flour can be hard to find, whole-wheat flour may be used in its place; most people won't detect the substitution. They are not likely to notice the beer in the recipe, either. It simply adds a little extra yeasty, malty aroma and gives the bread flavor more depth. If you have a coarse crystal salt on hand, it makes a nice garnish for the loaf top, but the bread is fine without it, too. To quickly "flatten" the beer, stir or whisk it until the head subsides. The bread will keep at room temperature for 48 hours. To retain the crisp crust, store it in a paper bag; for a softer crust, store in a resealable plastic food storage bag. Freeze for longer storage. Makes 1 large loaf (12 to 16 slices) Ingredients: For the first stage 3 cups (15 ounces) flour, preferably unbleached 1 cup (5 ounces) whole-wheat flour or rye flour 1 1/2 tablespoons caraway seeds 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch-process, sifted after measuring 1 1/2 teaspoons salt (use a generous 1 1/2 teaspoon if omitting the crystal salt garnish) 1/4 teaspoon "rapid rise," "quick rise," "bread machine" or "instant" yeast 2 tablespoons corn oil or canola oil, plus more for coating the dough top 12 ounces beer, flat and at room temperature 2 1/2 tablespoons molasses stirred into 2/3 cup room-temperature water For the second stage About 1/2 teaspoon corn oil for coating the dough top 1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds, for garnish 1/4 teaspoon coarse salt (optional) Directions: For the first stage: Thoroughly combine the flours, caraway seeds, cocoa powder, salt and yeast in a 3- to 4-quart or larger bowl; mix with a large spoon. Add the oil, beer and molasses-water mixture, vigorously stirring until very well blended and all bits of flour have been fully incorporated. The mixture may seem stiff at first; just keep stirring. Use a greased flexible spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Drizzle the dough top with about 1/2 teaspoon oil (no need to measure); use a pastry brush or your fingertips to spread it evenly over the dough surface. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Set aside at a room temperature of about 70 F or cooler for 12 to 18 hours. For the second stage: Generously coat a 2-quart or slightly larger souffle dish or deep-sided, flat-bottom ovenproof casserole (or similar-size heavy, all-metal saucepan) with nonstick cooking oil spray. (If necessary, check the volume by filling the container with water and measuring it.) Turn out the dough into the dish. Drizzle about 1/2 teaspoon oil over the top. Spread it out with a pastry brush or fingertips to completely coat the dough surface. Sprinkle the loaf top with the caraway seeds, pressing them down slightly with the fingertips. Sprinkle the coarse salt, if using. Using a sharp paring knife, cut a deep X in the center top of the loaf. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. For a "regular" rise: Let stand at room temperature for 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until the dough has doubled in bulk. (The time will vary considerably depending on the temperature of the room and the length of the first rise.) If the dough nears the plastic, remove the plastic. For a "quick" rise: Place a microwave-safe cup containing 1 cup of water in a rear corner of the microwave oven. Microwave for 2 minutes, until the water almost boils. Put the loaf in the microwave oven as far from the water as possible. Let rise for 1 to 1 1/2 hours or until the dough has doubled in bulk. If the dough nears the plastic, remove the plastic. For baking: Position an oven rack in the middle third of the oven; preheat to 425 F. Gently transfer the pan to the oven; jarring can cause deflating. Bake on the middle rack for 30 to 40 minutes or until the loaf is well-browned on top and sounds hollow when thumped. Remove to a wire rack; let cool for several minutes. Run a knife around the loaf to loosen, then remove from the pan. Let cool thoroughly on a wire rack before cutting or storing in an airtight container. Cut the loaf crosswise or into wedges, as desired. 149 calories, 2g fat, n/a saturated fat, n/a cholesterol, 221mg sodium, 27g carbohydrates, 2g dietary fiber, 4g protein. --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v107.n035.2 --------------- From: "Mary Fisher" Subject: Re: sourdough Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 12:50:29 -0000 >There are many great resources online with regards to sourdough, so >you might look around a bit. > >Hope this helps, >Mike It's inspired me to have a go :-) Thanks, Mary --------------- END bread-bakers.v107.n035 --------------- -------------- BEGIN bread-bakers.v107.n036 -------------- 001 - Mike Avery Subject: Re: The changing taste of sourdough Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2007 10:33:14 -0700 Allen Cohn asked Bob, >Are/were you feeding all these starters with the same flour? Perhaps >it's not the same air that's making them all start to taste the >same, but rather the same flour. The literature I've read says that >all flour has some microorganisms attached...so perhaps in time the >organisms in your flour come to outnumber whatever different strains >used to be in your world tour of starters. I've thought about this topic a lot, and done more than a bit of research on the matter. If you look at the romance of starting a starter, many people feel that you catch a starter from the air. More recent information suggests that while it is not impossible to do this, it is very unlikely. The concentration of yeast and bacteria on flour is much, MUCH higher than what is in the air. Dr. Ed Wood wanted to catch a :"real" Egyptian starter, so he had some flour sterilized by having it irradiated. When he put out containers of water and flour, he had a very high failure rate. When some people in rec.food.sourdough wanted to replicate this, the poured boiling water on flour to have a poor man's sterilization. And they found that they had over a 90% failure rate in starting starters, where normally they took success for granted. So, the critters ARE on the flour, and will most likely be the source of a starter. Similarly, the concentration of critters in an active and well maintained starter is many orders of magnitude higher than on flour. It is unlikely that the critters in the flour will take over a culture. Cultures tend to be, if well maintained, very stable over long periods of time. So where do changes in flavor come from? There are two major areas where change can come in. If you, like most people, have a natural starter you started with flour and water, it is a blend of different strains of yeast and bacteria. (In Germany, it is common practice for a baker to order the exact strains s/he wants from a bakery supply house and have a very pure culture.) In the natural culture, over a period of time one strain of yeast and one strain of bacteria will become dominant by orders of magnitude. The rest are still there... biding their time. If you change the conditions under which you maintain your starter, the dominant strains can become minority strains, and the starter will change. An all too common example of this is when strains that produce lots of proteolytic enzyme take over a culture. Proteolytic enzymes break down protein. A little of this is not a bad thing, it makes the dough extensible. A lot of this is very bad, it turns the dough into soup. These bacteria become dominant when the starter isn't fed enough and the critters that can eat protein instead of starches have an advantage. (As an aside, starters that go down this path are best discarded. You can partially rehabilitate them, but the next time you skip a few feedings, the balance will change and the proteolytic enzyme producing bacteria will be back in the drivers seat. If we assume good starter management, where do changes in taste come from? Hunters prize boars that have been feasting on acorns - it gives the meat such a nice taste. (Or so I am told. If anyone can send me care packages so I can try this treat myself, please send me an email. And French farmers feed their geese special herbs to give the birds livers a great taste that will be in the pate the livers will be used in. If you have ever nursed a baby, or lived with someone who has, you have probably noticed the baby is sensitive to what mom eats. What mom eats is expressed in her milk. And the baby may decide not to feed until the baby is really hungry or that taste goes away. If what a large organism eats can affect the taste of the organism, or its products, in a fairly short time frame, we shouldn't be too surprised that what a sourdough culture is fed will affect its taste. Flour is a commodity, but it is not as standardized as salt or sugar. There are differences from brand to brand, season to season and mill to mill. So, even though the sack has the same name on it, the flour may not really be the same. If you want to see a dramatic example of the differences flour can make, switch your flour to, or from, whole grain flours. In just a few feedings, you'll see and smell amazing differences. The differences between brands of white flour will be more subtle, but they will be there. An independent confirmation of this is the baker's folk wisdom that says if you want to duplicate another baker's bread, don't try to steal his sourdough culture, find out what kind of flour he is using. Flour is the biggest part of bread, so this isn't a big surprise. Mike Mike Avery mavery at mail dot otherwhen dot com --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v107.n036.2 --------------- From: aqn@panix.com Subject: Re: gummy no-knead and new NYTimes no-knead recipe Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 14:47:52 -0500 (EST) FMTZ@aol.com wrote: >Subject: Re: gummy no-knead and new NYTimes no-knead recipe >Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 16:04:50 EST > >Dear Jeanette: > >We had the same problem even when the bread was baked for a full >50-60 minutes - 30 minutes in the pot, 15 minutes in the pot with >the lid off and 10-15 minutes out of the pot on a baking stone. > >THEN we decided to shut off the oven, put the door ajar and let the >bread cool slowly as the oven cooled. Voila - nice crusty bread, big >holes, no moistness or gumminess inside. > >I believe that what happens is that the crust forms fairly fast in >the sealed pot - so fast that the moisture in the interior doesn't >have a chance to escape or dissipate sufficiently. This is a conjecture, but I believe that SLOW crust development is one of the big factors in no-knead bread. The loaf is baked in a SMALL tightly sealed vessel, which seals in steam/moisture for a long(er) time, resulting in slow development of the crust which allows the dough more time to do its "oven spring" before the crust hardens too much. >We might try, the next time, to take the lid off after 15 minutes of >baking. By then, the benefits of the contained moisture should have >been achieved. Experiment a little with a slightly lower temperature >too and with the amount of water you use. You don't have to be >slavish about the formula. I agree: experimentation is definitely the key to no-knead bread, indeed, to all of bread baking, since it's impossible to duplicate EVERY factor in somebody else's recipe: the type/brand/composition of flour and of yeast, water, weather (temperature, humidity), etc. >Finally, have you seen the 'new' approach to artisanal bread? > > >New York Times >November 21, 2007 > >Recipe: Simple Crusty Bread > >Adapted from "Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day" by Jeff Hertzberg >and Zoe Francois (Thomas Dunne Books, 2007) > >1 1/2 tablespoons yeast >1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt >6 1/2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour, more for dusting dough Holy smoke! 1.5 TABLESPOONS of yeast?! That is a LOT of yeast! By my calculations, (1C flour is 4.5 ozs, 1T is 3t), that's 2.5% salt by weight and 1.7% yeast by weight. By contrast, the NYT no-knead recipe is about 0.6% salt and 0.9 % yeast by weight. I wonder if the big amount of yeast is one of the factor in this no-knead recipe... Andy Nguyen --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v107.n036.3 --------------- From: Gloria J Martin Subject: "Gummy" No-Knead Bread: Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 11:30:02 -0600 I've made a number of loaves, and for some reason have not had the gummy problem. I have a suggestion. I first heard this on an old Julia Child show. It was not the same bread recipe, but might very well work with this too. I will try this myself on the next loaf I make, just for security: When the loaf is supposed to be finished, remove from the oven, and remove from the container, turn upside down and stick an instant read thermometer in the bottom, going up to what you guess is the middle of the loaf. Give it a little more than an "instant" , and check the temperature. Julia said the bread temp should read 190 F when done. Others I've heard say, 200 F. If your bread does not reach that high, then put the loaf back in the oven, out of the pan and bake it a little longer, then check it again. This really is a help if you forget to set a timer sometime---you can estimate how long you have, and then check your estimate with a thermometer. Gloria Martin --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v107.n036.4 --------------- From: Tarheel_Boy@webtv.net (Tarheel Boy) Subject: Re: sourdough Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 12:18:46 -0500 My thanks to Mainline Joe for adding his common sense remarks to mine. And you are correct about sourdough starter being practically indestructible. Think about how it got bounced around in those old chuckwagons. Bob the Tarheel Baker --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v107.n036.5 --------------- From: Tarheel_Boy@webtv.net (Tarheel Boy) Subject: Re: microorganisms Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 12:32:27 -0500 Oh, lordy. Now Allen tells me I have microorganisms in my flour. What next? Just kidding, Allen. Yes, I was feeding all my starters with the same flour. It was King Arthur unbleached all-purpose flour. I suppose the microrganisms in the flour could have something to do with taste change, but I still have to go with the wild yeasts in the air in my mountain neighborhood and my kitchen. Interesting idea, though. In any case, there are so many bread recipes and so little time that I'm just not going to worry about it. ;- Bob the Tarheel Baker --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v107.n036.6 --------------- From: "dmsawyer@juno.com" Subject: Almost No-Knead Bread Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 06:46:50 GMT Almost No-Knead Bread Cook's Illustrated, Jan/Fed 2008 Use a mild-flavored lager, such as Budweiser. The bread is best eaten the same day it is baked but can be wrapped in aluminum foil and stored in a cool, dry place for up to 2 days. This is a loaf of bread that both looks and tastes incredible. 3 cups (15 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting work surface 1/4 teaspoon instant yeast 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons water (7 ounces), at room temperature 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (3 ounces) mild-flavored lager I tablespoon white vinegar 1. Whisk flour, yeast, and salt in large bowl. Add water, beer, and vinegar. Using rubber spatula, fold mixture, scraping up dry flour from bottom of bowl until shaggy ball forms. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 8 to 18 hours. 2. Lay 12 by 18 inch sheet of parchment paper inside 10-inch skillet and spray with nonstick cook­ing spray. Transfer dough to lightly floured, work surface and knead 10 to 15 times. Shape dough into ball by pulling edges into middle. Transfer dough, seam-side down, to parchment-lined skillet and spray surface of dough with nonstick cooking spray. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until dough has doubled in size and does not readily spring back when poked with finger, about 2 hours. 3. About 30 minutes before baking, adjust oven rack to lowest position, place 6 to 8 quart heavy ­bottomed Dutch oven (with lid) on rack, and heat oven to 500 F. Lightly flour top of dough and, using razor blade or sharp knife, make one 6-inch long, l/2-inch deep slit along top of dough. Carefully remove pot from oven and remove lid. Pick up dough by lifting parchment overhang and lower into pot (let any excess parchment hang over pot edge). Cover pot and place in oven. Reduce oven temperature to 425 F and bake covered for 30 minutes. Remove lid and continue to bake until loaf is deep brown and instant-read thermometer inserted into center registers 210 F, 20 to 30 minutes longer. Carefully remove bread from pot; transfer to wire rack and cool to room temperature, about 2 hours. ALMOST NO-KNEAD BREAD WITH OLIVES, ROSEMARY, AND PARMESAN Follow recipe for Almost No-Knead Bread, adding 4 ounces finely grated Parmesan (about 2 cups) and 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary leaves to flour mixture in step 1. Add l/2 cup pitted, chopped green olives with water in step 1. ALMOST NO-KNEAD WHOLE WHEAT BREAD Follow recipe for Almost No-Knead Bread, replacing 1 cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour with 1 cup (5 ounces) whole wheat flour. Stir 2 tablespoons honey into water before adding it to dry ingredients in step 1. ALMOST NO-KNEAD CRANBERRY-PECAN BREAD Follow recipe for Almost No-Knead Bread, adding l/2 cup dried cranberries and 1/2 cup toasted pecan halves to flour mixture in step 1. Cook's Illustrated Notes: Transferring dough to a preheated Dutch oven to bake can be tricky. To avoid burnt fingers and help the dough hold its shape, we came up with a novel solution: Let the dough rise in a skillet (its shallow depth makes it better than a bowl) that's been lined with greased parchment paper, then use the paper's edges to pick up the dough and lower it into the Dutch oven. The bread remains on the parchment paper as it bakes. An enameled cast-iron Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid yields best results, but the recipe also works in a regular cast-iron Dutch oven or heavy stockpot. I used a heavy Le Creuset Dutch oven. My Notes: I didn't use the lowest position in the oven - I used the next one up, because some people had experienced an almost burnt bottom crust. I also followed Frank's suggestion - after the bread was finished baking I didn't remove it from the oven. Just turned off the oven and left the door opened for about another 40 minutes. Worked GREAT! Wonderful crust, great texture and no gumminess! DMSawyer --------------- END bread-bakers.v107.n036 --------------- Copyright (c) 1996-2007 Regina Dwork and Jeffrey Dwork All Rights Reserved