Ivan:
The major reason why I use mostly refined sugar in baking bread and cakes is
that refined sugar gives sweetness WITHOUT adding any flavour. I'm perfectly
happy to use honey or unrefined sugar where a bread or cake is MEANT to taste
of honey or unrefined sugar.
The flavour of, for example, a brioche, is meant to be of bread, eggs and
butter and the flavour balance of a brioche made with honey is different (not
better or worse just different) and whether you prefer the classic version or
one made with honey is a matter of taste (I prefer the classic version).
The general rule of thumb I use is that the more elegant and subtle the bread
the less likely it is that honey will be an improvement. And yes, I expect
some disagreement from list members on this point.
One thing that honey can do better than refined sugar is make sweet breads
and cakes that stay moist for days - the glucose in the honey absorbs
moisture from the air.
John Wright
Yorkshire
England
"That which does not kill us makes us stronger"