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Re: Sourdough Quandary

"Mike Avery" <mavery@mail.otherwhen.com>
Sat, 16 Feb 2002 18:22:54 -0700
v102.n008.15
On 15 Feb 2002 at 22:17, Jerry Ulett was heard to say:

 > I am confused. I have read several books on sourdough baking and each
 > author seems to have a different opinion on how best to do it. Some
 > say that you must use bread flour, others say all purpose is best.
 > Some say proof the starter at room temperature, others say at about 85
 > degrees. Some use a thick starter, others a thin one. Some say use
 > bottled water, others find tap water to be acceptable. And on and on.
 > It reminds me of an old saying that "A man with one watch knows what
 > time it is. A man with two watches is never sure!"

I'd suggest using one book, and jumping in.  I have read Peter's "The Bread 
Baker's Apprentice" book, but haven't baked any recipes from it, so I can't 
comment on it.  It's beautiful, it's got some great stories, the bread 
looks great, and many of my friends are swooning over it.  I hope to try 
the Pain Ancienne this weekend, and I am looking at his sourdough recipes.

I have looked at a lot of books on sourdough, and many make my hair stand 
on end.  They are just WRONG!

My three suggestions when looking at books on sourdough is.. skip books 
that have you start a starter with fruit or vegetables.  The yeast on them 
is not the appropriate type for sourdough, and while the starter will take 
off like gangbusters, it will take that much longer for the right yeasts to 
move in and take over.  It's better to just start with flour and water, or 
to buy a known culture, or get one from a friend.  Some people say that the 
fruit feeds the yeast.  Odd... that's what I thought the flour was for.

Next, skip books that have you use baker's yeast to start the 
starter.  It's the wrong type for sourdough.  It can't take the acidity of 
a good sourdough starter, and it doesn't help "attract" wild yeast.  (This 
reminds me of a Daffy Duck cartoon where Daffy flew into Porky Pig's house 
because of a stuffed duck on the mantlepiece.  It just doesn't work that way.)

The final suggestion is to avoid books that suggest using baker's yeast 
with your sourdough starter.  This suggests that the people either don't 
understand sourdough, don't trust their starter, or don't have their 
process under control.

When I started playing with sourdough, I was very, very frustrated.  It 
just didn't work reliably.  It was torture. I knew that there had to be a 
way to make it reliable, since bakeries had used sourdough (or natural 
leavens) for millenia before commercial yeast was developed.

The book that first tied it together for me was Dr. Ed Wood's "World 
Sourdoughs from Antiquity".  He has a new book out called, "Classic 
Sourdoughs" if memory serves.  I have both, and like both.  If you have 
neither, just get the newer book - there is a fair amount of overlap 
between them.  He sells it at his home page http://www.sourdo.com and you 
can find it at amazon, half.com, and all the usual suspects.  I found a 
number of neat flax seed bread recipes in his new book that are becoming 
family favorites. (Also, flax seed has as much omega-3 as salmon, and it's 
a WHOLE lot cheaper!)

Dr. Wood understands how to culture and maintain sourdough.  Some people 
aren't wild about his recipes, but they are an excellent starting 
point.  You'll learn how to keep a culture going, how to use it to rise 
bread, and how to rise bread with nothing but sourdough.  Then, if the 
recipes aren't quite to your liking, you can use what you've learned to 
modify other recipes.

One of the most frustrating resources is the sourdough news group faq 
because it has so many different views. My feeling is that all the 
information given there is valid, it's just different people's 
experiences.  Different people have different goals, different ways of 
working, and if it makes bread they like, that's cool.  Which is part of 
the problem of looking at too many different sourdough books.

Mike
-- 
Mike Avery
MAvery@mail.otherwhen.com
ICQ: 16241692       AOL IM: MAvery81230