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High Hydration Focaccia

"Werner Gansz" <wwgansz@madriver.com>
Wed, 17 Sep 2008 22:01:55 -0400
v108.n034.5
This focaccia recipe uses ingredients from Peter Reinhart's "Bread 
Baker's Apprentice" Sicilian Bread recipe, hydration levels from 
"Cooks Illustrated" recent high hydration pizza dough and mixing and 
proofing procedure from Joe Ortiz's "The Village Baker" Genoa 
Focaccia recipe.  I've done many focaccias and have never been 
satisfied with the texture of the final bread.  Most are dry and have 
a "bready" texture.  I started using BBA's Sicilian Bread dough (a 
mixture of white flour and semolina flour) for pizzas and we like it 
very much.  I tried the Cooks Illustrated high hydration pizza 
procedure and the pizza was excellent but had more of a focaccia 
thickness and texture.  The pizza dough is too wet to roll or stretch 
so it just gets poured and pushed into a rough pizza shape.  I looked 
up my old "Village Baker" Genoa Focaccia recipe in Ortiz and decided 
that I would merge the three sources into one, a very high hydration 
semolina Genoa Focaccia.  Focaccia's don't have to be shaped so a 
high hydration dough that is "pourable" is quite practical and 
workable.  Ortiz doesn't add toppings to his Genoa Focaccia but 
Reinhart has several in BBA and American Pie.  I used a simple 
topping of soft cooked diced onion, diced sun dried tomato, and 
grated parmesan.

Before you read further, Ortiz's focaccia rises in a herbed olive oil 
bath and absorbs a lot of oil.  The final bread is delightfully oily 
so you will need to keep a napkin handy.  If you think focaccia is 
just thick pizza dough than you may not like this version.  The 
texture of this high hydration bread has the classic uneven holes and 
shiny crumb but there are no oversize voids to cause burning of the 
crust.  The crumb is not bready nor is it pasty.

High Hydration Genoa Focaccia

Poolish - 100% hydration

5 1/4 oz.  All Purpose Flour
5 1/4 oz.  Water
Pinch yeast - approx 1/8 tsp in winter, 1/16 tsp in summer

Semolina Dough - 90% hydration

All of the poolish above
5 oz.  All Purpose Flour
6 oz.  Semolina Flour
2 tsp  sea salt
2 tsp  Instant Yeast (Bread Machine Yeast)
9 1/4  oz. water - slightly warmed
1 Tb. olive oil
2 tsp. honey

Olive Oil Bath

1/2 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
4 finely diced garlic cloves
8 sage leaves, coarsely chopped or coarsely shredded by hand
1 tsp sea salt.

Toppings - your choice or none
Remember that there are already garlic and herbs in the oil bath.
Lightly sauteed diced onion and diced sun dried tomatoes, plus a 
sprinkling of parmesan.
Both BBA and "American Pie" also have toppings
You can also use coarse salt as a topping

If you start in the morning, the focaccia should be done in time for 
your pasta dinner.  Mix the poolish in the early morning and let is 
rise until very bubbly, about 4 to 5 hours.  I always dissolve the 
instant yeast in the water first.  It can't hurt and it distributes 
the tiny amount of yeast very efficiently.  While the poolish is 
rising, mix the ingredients of the olive oil bath together.

For the dough, mix the yeast into the water, then add the honey and 
olive oil, stir until the honey is dissolved.  Pour the yeast mixture 
into the poolish and stir until the poolish is dissolved.  Measure 
and mix the flours and salt into the bowl from an electric 
mixer.  (This is an electric mixer job.  I have no idea how long it 
would take to mix this dough by hand with a spoon.  The procedure 
comes from Carol Field's "the Italian Baker".)  Pour the yeast 
mixture into the flour mixture and blend using the flat beater on 
"STIR" speed for two minutes.  Stop and let everything hydrate for 15 
to 20 minutes.  Still with the flat beater, mix on speed 2 for at 
least 12 to 13 minutes.  Speed 2 on my Viking is one speed above 
"STIR".  Every 3 minutes or so, lift the head to let the dough (or 
batter) fall back into the mix. Somewhere around minute 11 you should 
see the batter tighten up and start to draw away from the sides of 
the bowl.  After 12 to 13 minutes the dough should be clinging to the 
flat beater but with a large puddle in the bottom of the bowl.  It 
still won't look like dough, it never will.

Pour 1/3 of the Olive Oil bath mixture into the bottom of a rising 
bowl and spread it around.  The rising bowl should be big enough to 
allow for tripling of the dough.  Pour the dough out of the mixing 
bowl into the rising bowel (a plastic dough scraper helps 
here).  Pour the remainder of the herbed oil bath over the top of the 
dough and spread with a brush (carefully, it is very sticky) to coat 
the entire dough surface.  Cover and let rise until tripled (3 to 4 
hours).  There will still be some oil bath under the dough but you 
will be surprised how much has been absorbed.  Use a bit more olive 
oil or PAM to grease the inside of a 4-sided 11" X 17" sheet 
pan.  Pour the dough into the pan but try to keep as much of the 
unabsorbed oil bath in the rising bowl.  Spread the dough as evenly 
as possible.  It may take a few "rests" before you can get it into 
the corners.  (At this point the dough is very slimy and 
unappetizing.  Take heart!) Pour the remaining oil bath from the 
rising bowl onto the dough and spread as evenly as possible.  Try to 
spread large puddles as their weight will prevent the dough from rising.

Add toppings now.  This very soft wet dough can't handle heavy, meaty 
toppings, it won't lift them.  If you put them on later it will 
collapse. Be gentle.

Cover the dough with a second 11 x 17 pan upside-down.  Preheat the 
oven to 400 F.  Use a baking stone if you have one.  After one hour 
the dough should be at the rim of the pan, about double.  Prick any 
obvious large bubbles.  If puddles have prevented rising in one area, 
use a soft brush to spread the oil out.  Most of the oil should now 
be gone and the dough should have a shiny surface.  (Some procedures 
say to gently push the dough down slightly with your open, oiled 
palm.  I tried but this dough is too sticky.

Bake on the stone for 25 to 30 minutes, until the crust turns a light 
tan. Remove the focaccia from the pan using a 1 sided cookie sheet as 
a spatula and place it on a cooling rack with paper towel under 
it.  The finished focaccia is still fragile and will break easily if 
you try to lift it without support.

This focaccia is fun to make.  You get to grease up your hands, your 
cloths and everything you touch with garlicky olive oil.  You can't 
eat a piece without getting oil on your hands but the taste and 
texture are excellent and, I believe, authentic.  Once you have made 
one you can adjust the type and quantity of herbs and garlic to 
taste.  Rosemary focaccia is also excellent.