Chad Robertson's Tartine Country Bread
Source: www.marthastewart.com
Chad Robertson of San Francisco's Tartine Bakery & Cafe describes a
starter -- a mixture of flour, water, wild yeasts, and bacteria -- as
a baker's fingerprint. Making one is simple, but it does require a
commitment: Count on feeding and caring for the mixture for three
weeks before you start baking.
For something closer to immediate gratification, begin using the
starter after five to seven days, or order a fresh starter at
<kingarthurflour.com>. (Keep in mind, the flavor won't be as
complex.) Another secret to baking like a pro: Weigh all the
ingredients -- even the water -- using a kitchen scale that includes
metric measurements.
Recipe is from "Tartine Bread" by Chad Robertson.
Starter:
White bread flour, 1,135 grams
Whole-wheat flour, 1,135 grams
Water (lukewarm), 455 grams
Water (78 F), 100 grams per feeding
Leaven:
Water (78 F), 200 grams
Dough:
Water (80 F), 750 grams
Leaven, 200 grams
White bread flour, 900 grams
Whole-wheat flour, 100 grams
Salt, 20 grams
Step 1 - Make the Starter: Mix white bread flour with whole-wheat
flour. Place lukewarm water in a medium bowl. Add 315 grams flour
blend (reserve remaining flour blend), and mix with your hands until
mixture is the consistency of a thick, lump-free batter. Cover with a
kitchen towel. Let rest in a cool, dark place until bubbles form
around the sides and on the surface, about 2 days. A dark crust may
form over the top. Once bubbles form, it is time for the first feeding.
Step 2 - With each feeding, remove 75 grams; discard remainder of
starter. Feed with 150 grams reserved flour blend and 100 grams warm
water. Mix, using your hands, until mixture is the consistency of a
thick, lump-free batter. Repeat every 24 hours at the same time of
day for 15 to 20 days. Once it ferments predictably (rises and falls
throughout the day after feedings), it's time to make the leaven.
Step 3 - Make the Leaven: The night before you plan to make the
dough, discard all but 1 tablespoon of the matured starter. Feed with
200 grams reserved flour blend and the warm water. Cover with a
kitchen towel. Let rest in a cool, dark place for 10 to 16 hours. To
test leaven's readiness, drop a spoonful into a bowl of
room-temperature water. If it sinks, it is not ready and needs more
time to ferment and ripen. As it develops, the smell will change from
ripe and sour to sweet and pleasantly fermented; when it reaches this
stage, it's ready to use.
Step 4 - Make the Dough: Pour 700 grams warm water into a large
mixing bowl. Add 200 grams leaven. Stir to disperse. (Save your
leftover leaven; it is now the beginning of a new starter. To keep it
alive to make future loaves, continue to feed it as described in step
2.) Add flours (see ingredient list), and mix dough with your hands
until no bits of dry flour remain. Let rest in a cool, dark place for
35 minutes. Add salt and remaining 50 grams warm water.
Step 5 - Fold dough on top of itself to incorporate. Transfer to a
medium plastic container or a glass bowl. Cover with kitchen towel.
Let rest for 30 minutes. The dough will now begin its first rise
(bulk fermentation), to develop flavor and strength. (The rise is
temperature sensitive; as a rule, warmer dough ferments faster.
Robertson tries to maintain the dough at 78 F to 82 F to accomplish
the bulk fermentation in 3 to 4 hours.)
Step 6 - Instead of kneading, Robertson develops the dough through a
series of "folds" in the container during bulk fermentation. Fold
dough, repeating every 30 minutes for 2 1/2 hours. To do a fold, dip
1 hand in water to prevent sticking. Grab the underside of the dough,
stretch it out, and fold it back over itself. Rotate container
one-quarter turn, and repeat. Do this 2 or 3 times for each fold.
After the 3 hours, the dough should feel aerated and softer, and you
will see a 20 to 30 percent increase in volume. If not, continue bulk
fermentation for 30 minutes to 1 hour more.
Step 7 - Pull dough out of container using a dough spatula. Transfer
to a floured surface. Lightly dust dough with flour, and cut into 2
pieces using dough scraper. Work each piece into a round using
scraper and 1 hand. Tension will build as the dough slightly anchors
to the surface as you rotate it. By the end, the dough should have a
taut, smooth surface.
Step 8 - Dust tops of rounds with flour, cover with a kitchen towel,
and let rest on the work surface for 20 to 30 minutes. Slip the dough
scraper under each to lift it, being careful to maintain the round
shape. Flip rounds floured side down.
Step 9 - Line 2 medium baskets or bowls with clean kitchen towels;
generously dust with flour. Using the dough scraper, transfer each
round to a basket, smooth side down, with seam centered and facing
up. Let rest at room temperature (75 to 80 F), covered with towels
for 3 to 4 hours before baking.
Step 10 - Bake the Bread:Twenty minutes before you are ready to bake
the bread, preheat oven to 500 F, with rack in lowest position, and
warm a 9 1/2-inch round or an 11-inch oval Dutch oven (or a heavy
ovenproof pot with a tight-fitting lid).
Step 11 - Turn out 1 round into heated Dutch oven (it may stick to
towel slightly). Score top twice using a razor blade or a sharp
knife. Cover with lid. Return to oven, and reduce oven temperature to
450 F. Bake for 20 minutes.
Step 12 - Carefully remove lid (a cloud of steam will be released).
Bake until crust is deep golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes more.
Step 13 - Transfer loaf to a wire rack. It will feel light and sound
hollow when tapped. Let cool.
Step 14 - To bake the second loaf, raise oven temperature to 500 F,
wipe out Dutch oven with a dry kitchen towel, and reheat with lid for
10 minutes. Repeat steps 11 through 13.
deb in Georgia
"Until one has loved an animal,
part of their soul remains unawakened."
Anatole France
[Editor's note: this is the recipe Frank Metzger talked about in last
week's digest (v111.n003.2)]