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Summer Baking

Scott Stager <stagers@missouri.edu>
Tue, 26 May 2009 09:17:29 -0500
v109.n021.13
I have been reading the bread-bakers list for years, but have never 
posted.  This questions below from Reggie has enticed me to post 
because I do outdoor bread baking as part of 19th century living 
history reenactments.  Hope I have posted this properly.

I have been involved with Civil War reenactments for a number of 
years (U.S. internal conflict of the mid 19th century).  I started 
being an assistant cook (cast iron cooking over open wood fires). Our 
chief cook was so good and highly productive that I had to find a 
side line to keep me busy.  At his prompting I started making bread 
products.  Subsequent to that I have done other similar events with 
more emphasis on the baking rather than the cooking.

We mostly use turn of the 20th century tin ovens originally designed 
to sit on top of kerosene or early gas stoves.  Yes, they are not 
period to mid 19th century, but only we know :0)  They were designed 
for  heat to come up from the bottom from a gas burner.  We mount 
them on a stack of bricks with a small wood fire underneath.  These 
ovens are double walled, with the heat rising within, then entering 
holes near the top and circulating back down between the walls to 
exit near the outside bottom.  There is a partial plate across the 
bottom to keep the direct radiant energy from the heat source from 
overheating the bottom of the bread pan.  I have not yet tried 
cooking with a stone or ceramic tiles, but do intend to try that some 
day once I locate appropriate tiles.  I have also done this in large 
dutch ovens which would be more period correct.

I use basic bread recipes, usually 6+ cups of flour which creates two 
loaves.  I usually augment them with a bit of sweetener, oil/egg, and 
milk (sometimes use dry milk powder).  I use somewhat old (or at 
least old looking) metal baking pans, but have also used old ceramic 
pans.  The major problem with this cooking is creating and 
maintaining proper and consistent heat within the oven.  I have 
"cheated" and a modern BBQ thermometer through a small hole in the 
back to help judge internal oven temperature.  The fire is built 
either with good hardwood chunks which will burn down to a nice 
glowing small fire which provides more heat than flame.  I have also 
used charcoal, but the 100% charcoal chunk kind, not the ubiquitous brickettes.

Sometimes the bread cooks too slow, sometimes too fast, sometimes too 
hot, sometimes too cool.  Sometimes the outer crust gets a bit over 
baked (read burnt), and sometimes the outside looks fantastic but the 
inside is a bit undercooked (sometimes gooey).  But rarely is a loaf 
so bad that it is tossed.  The kids really like it and my biggest 
problem is convincing everyone that bread needs to rest after baking 
and cool before it is cut.  They all like bread hot out of the oven. 
I sometimes have to put a body guard near it to prevent premature 
cutting :0).  I do cheat further and use a modern instant read 
thermometer to check doneness.  I keep that discretely hid under my 
apron when not in use.

I have not, but do intend to try doing the same thing in my home BBQ 
grills.  I have a very old cast aluminum one which I use regularly. 
It would easily hold a loaf or two off to the side of the charcoal 
fire.  I would use either briquets of 100% charcoal chunks.  These 
grills are much easier to maintain temperature than the ovens over 
fire.  I also have a large side firepot wood fired BBQ grill, big 
enough to roast about a 1/4 hog.  I suspect I could get 6-8 loaves in 
there side by side and would only have to rotate the loaves to/from 
the firepot side to even out the cooking.

This works folks, and if you are into the fun of doing this kind of 
stuff you could achieve quite satisfactory results.  I have a friend 
locally who has one of those large brick wood fired ovens that weighs 
tons, but those things require at least a 24 hour committment, and 
are only worth it if you are prepared to do a couple of dozen loaves 
at one time.  My method is much quicker and much more portable.  At a 
reenactment earlier this spring I cooked a true sourdough loaf with 
no added commercial yeast.  Put it in a ceramic pan I found at an 
antique mall for $3 and put that in a large 12" dutch oven (the tall 
version).  I didn't put enough heat under the oven, incorrectly 
focusing on the top, so the loaf was not properly cooked on the 
bottom and wouldn't even release properly from the pan, but the top 
sure looked nice and golden brown and the top half was quite edible. 
I learned from that and the next time it will be much better.

I really enjoy reading this list each week and hope that my comments 
will encourage some of you to try outdoor bread baking on the cheap.

Cheers -- Scott

Scott Stager
Columbia Missouri