Much discussion about brotforms and bannetons of late. I'm glad people are
using them. Not long ago they were all but unheard of in this country.
Someone on the list mentioned that brotforms are used merely to impart a
look to a loaf of bread. The look is only one of the benefits. A major
advantage of using brotforms and bannetons is that they allow you to use
wetter dough and still get a tall loaf. The wet dough is supported by the
basket as it proofs. If given a long, slow proof, the dough builds enough
strength to hold its shape when removed. Such a loaf cannot be proofed on
a baking sheet; it will spread out too much. One can proof such a dough in
a "couche" of proofing canvas, but the forms are easier to handle. The
porosity of a good form also allows some air to get to the crust, slightly
drying it as the loaf rises (I question the effectiveness of plastic
brotforms because they don't breath. Neither will a cloth-lined bowl.)
This "pre-crust" also helps support the loaf after it is removed from the
basket, while it is being scored and loaded into the oven. By using a form
one can produce a loaf with that elusive combination of crisp crust and
moist, open crumb. One should choose the style of mold to complement the
crust desired. Bannetons (the canvas-lined baskets) leave a nice, smooth
crust with a matte finish and will release more easily than brotforms (the
coiled wood baskets). Brotforms impart more texture to the crust but
require more care when used with wet dough.
As for cost; Some gourmet and catalog stores are charging obscene prices
for low quality baskets. San Francisco Baking Institute has very good
prices and their reputation leads me to believe that their quality is good.
One can't easily make wooden brotforms at home, but I heartily believe that
commercially available bannetons (the cloth lined baskets) can be improved
upon if one wants to take further control of their baking. One can choose
their own materials (willow baskets and untreated, organic cotton duck,
hemp canvas or linen work well) and choose the basket to their preferred
shape and size. Far from cheapening the experience, I believe making one's
own bannetons gives a sense of satisfaction to the baker every time it is
used. I'm certainly proud of mine (anybody notice that?).
When purchasing bannetons, don't make the mistake of confusing an elevated
price with elevated quality. There are some really cheap ones out there
with outrageous price tags. Don't support vendors that sell image over
substance. Buy from a reputable vendor that specializes in baking and
bakery equipment (such as SFBI or King Arthur) or make your own, which is
really the more traditional way of doing it.
In Search of the Tall Crusty Loaf,
Greg Carpenter
Petoskey, MI