Home Bread-Bakers v104.n048.7

re: fluffy wholewheat

"Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net>
Mon, 1 Nov 2004 09:09:25 -0700
Harry and Rose--

Rose said,
Harry, I bet i'm not alone in wanting to have your recipe because i'm dying 
of curiosity how you get FLUFFY 100 percent wholewheat bread. By fluffy I 
assume you mean light and soft? Mine has a nice grain and soft chewiness 
but fluffy would be a stretch! Please share!

Ithink the secret of fluffy 100% whole wheat bread is 1) using whole wheat 
"bread flour"-- i.e. sufficient protein and finely ground (I use Guisto's), 
2) large portion of prefermented dough, 3) using sufficient yeast and 

Here is one example, of many, to prove my point.  Here is my adaptation of 
a 100% whole grain adaptation by Tom Park of an adaptation by Peter 
Reinholdt of his infamous struan.  It's not fluffy like a croissant or 
baguette--but I think it qualifies for those adjectives in the sense we're 
using here.


1 1/2 c    whole wheat bread flour (200 g)
6 Tbsp     cracked 7 grain mix* (60 g)
1/4 tsp    yeast
3/4 c      water, room temp (180 g)

*e.g. Arrowhead Mills 7 grain non-wheat

The biga
1/2 c       buttermilk (120 g)
1 1/2 Tbsp  honey
3 Tbsp      brown sugar
1 1/2 c     whole wheat bread flour (200 g)
1 1/2 tsp   salt (8 g)
2 1/2 tsp   instant yeast

NIGHT BEFORE BAKING, MIX THE BIGA:  In a small bowl mix together the biga 
ingredients just enough to hydrate.  Add a few more drops water if 
necessary but this should be stiff and coarse.  Cover and let sit 
overnight.  (**Note: The biga yeast can be ordinary dry yeast or bread 
machine yeast and does not need to be proofed.)

THE NEXT DAY MAKE THE DOUGH:  Break up the biga into pieces.  Add in the 
buttermilk and other dough ingredients in the order your breadmachine 
prefers.  Run the dough cycle for 5 minutes, add a teaspoon or so of water 
if necessary to make things mix.  Turn off machine and let this shaggy mass 
sit for 20 or 30 minutes.  Re-run the whole dough cycle (on my machine: 
knead plus rise is 90 minutes).  At the beep let the dough sit undisturbed 
in the warm pan in the machine for another 30 minutes. Take out the dough 
onto a lightly floured surface and press into a rough rectangle. The dough 
will be moist and tacky but still somewhat extensible--be careful not to 
rip it.  Roll up the rectangle tightly like a carpet to form a log, fold 
over to form a log roughly the length of your oiled loaf pan.  Press down 
into the pan, evening the shape and pushing into the corners.

Cover lightly and let proof till the dough rises solidly over the top of 
the pan, anywhere from 30 to 90 minutes, depending on temperature.  This 
dough proofs unusually quickly.

Bake in a preheated 350 F oven till richly brown crust, about an hour. Cool 
before eating.

Sources: Adapted for ABM by Jonathan Kandell from an adaptation by Tom Park 
of an adaptation by Peter Reinholdt (in BBA) of his Struan (in BJ).