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Black-and-White Conchas

Reggie Dwork <reggie@jeff-and-reggie.com>
Sat, 01 Aug 2020 18:23:53 -0700
v120.n029.8
* Exported from MasterCook *

                          Conchas, Black-and-White

Recipe By     :Rick Martinez
Serving Size  : 12    Preparation Time :0:00
Categories    : Bread                           Bread-Bakers Mailing List
                 Chocolate/Cocoa                 Ethnic
                 Posted

   Amount  Measure       Ingredient -- Preparation Method
--------  ------------  --------------------------------
                         Dough
   2 1/4            tsp  active dry yeast -- (1 1/4-oz. envelope)
      1/2           cup  whole milk -- warm  (about 110F)
   3              large  eggs -- room temperature
   6              Tbsp.  granulated sugar -- (75 g)
   2               tsp.  Diamond Crystal salt -- or 1 1/4 tsp. Morton 
kosher salt
   3              Tbsp.  nonfat dry milk powder
   3               cups  bread flour -- plus more for surface  (375 g)
   10             Tbsp.  unsalted butter -- cut into 10 even pieces, 
room temperature
                         Topping and assembly
   1                cup  all-purpose flour -- plus
   1              Tbsp.  all-purpose flour -- (133 g)
      2/3           cup  powdered sugar -- (73 g)
      1/2           cup  ghee -- refined coconut oil, or vegetable 
shortening, melted and cooled
   1               tsp.  Diamond Crystal salt -- or 1/2 tsp. Morton kosher salt
   1               tsp.  vanilla paste -- or extract
   1              Tbsp.  unsweetened cocoa powder -- preferably Dutch-process
   1              large  egg

The two most classic concha flavors you'll find at panaderias in 
Mexico are chocolate and vanilla. (The shell-shaped sugar topping to 
these classic Mexican sweet breads also come in fun colors, but those 
are usually vanilla in disguise.) For concha fanatic Rick Martinez, 
the question was always why couldn't he have both? "For those who 
want a little bit of everything (like me)," Rick says, "I give you La 
Concha Negra y Blanca." It's a fun little play on New York's famous 
Black-and-White cookie, amped up with lots of chocolate and vanilla 
flavor. Note that Rick recommends using vanilla paste (we like the 
one from Heilala), which holds onto its flavor better than extract or 
beans when heated, and Dutch-process cocoa, which lends a deeper, 
richer chocolate flavor than regular cocoa.

Dough: Whisk yeast and milk in the bowl of a stand mixer to combine. 
Let sit 10 minutes for yeast to dissolve.

Whisk eggs, granulated sugar, and salt in a small bowl. Add egg 
mixture, milk powder, and 3 cups bread flour to yeast mixture. Stir 
with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms. Fit bowl onto stand 
mixer fitted with dough hook and mix on medium speed until dough 
comes together but is still slightly tough, about 3 minutes. Increase 
speed to medium high and beat, adding butter a piece at a time and 
waiting until absorbed before adding the next piece, until dough is 
smooth, elastic, and very tacky but pulls away from sides of bowl 
(dough will look broken as you add the butter, but don't worry; it 
will eventually come together), about 15 minutes. This may seem like 
a long knead time, but it will improve the final texture of the bread.

Cover bowl tightly and chill until doubled in volume, at least 12 
hours. Letting dough rise in the fridge for a longer period of time 
will produce a dough with the best flavor, but if you don't have the 
time, cover dough and let rise in a warm (about 80F is ideal), 
draft-free spot until doubled in volume, 35 to 50 minutes. The visual 
cue is more important here than the time. How long your dough takes 
to proof will depend on how warm your kitchen is. You don't want to 
overproof the dough, so check it at 35 minutes. Finished dough will 
smell buttery and yeasty and have doubled in size. If it is not 
there, check again in 10 minutes.

Gently deflate dough by pressing it down and folding it over onto 
itself. Repeat until completely deflated.

Do ahead: Dough can be made 3 days ahead. Keep chilled (do not 
deflate until ready to form into rolls).

Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Beat flour, powdered 
sugar, ghee, salt, and vanilla in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted 
with the paddle attachment until combined and smooth. Transfer half 
of sugar topping to a small bowl. Add cocoa powder to remaining sugar 
topping and beat on medium-low speed to combine. Divide both vanilla 
and chocolate sugar toppings into 12 equal pieces (about 15 g each). 
Gently roll 1 vanilla ball and 1 chocolate ball into a single ball, 
making sure to keep colors from blending. Repeat with remaining balls 
and transfer to a plate. Cover loosely and let sit until ready to use.

Turn out dough onto a work surface and divide into 12 equal pieces 
(about 80 g each). Working one at time, rest a cupped hand over dough 
so your palm and fingers enclose it and vigorously work your hand in 
a circular motion on the counter to shape dough into a smooth, round 
ball (the friction between the dough and the work surface will create 
tension, stretching dough into a taut dome). Transfer to prepared 
baking sheets. Arrange 6 balls on each, spacing evenly apart.

Beat egg with 1 Tbsp. water in a small bowl to blend and brush 1 
dough ball with egg wash. Using kitchen shears, cut open the sides of 
a small resealable plastic bag so that it opens up like a book. Place 
1 piece of sugar topping on 1 side of open bag and fold other side 
over to cover. Using a small skillet or saucepan, press down on ball 
to flatten into a 4"-diameter disk. Carefully peel open bag and 
invert disk onto dough ball; fit it to the dough so it covers the top 
and sides of ball completely without overlaps. Carefully remove bag. 
Using a rubber spatula, scrape off any topping stuck to bag and 
repeat process with remaining egg wash, dough balls, and sugar 
topping. Let conchas rise in a warm, draft-free spot until almost 
doubled in size, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours (if dough was proofed at room 
temperature, this may only take 1 hour).

Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 325F. Select a starting 
point on left side of dough, and, using a razor or sharp paring 
knife, very lightly score half-moon lines into topping so they 
radiate out across topping, starting from the same point and spacing 
about 1/3" apart. You want to be careful not to deflate the dough, so 
don't press down and let the weight of the knife do the cutting (you 
don't need to cut through the topping).

Place 1 baking sheet of conchas in the fridge and bake the other 
sheet until dough is golden brown, topping is very lightly darkened, 
and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center registers 
195F, 20 to 30 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes on baking sheet, then 
transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely. Repeat with 
remaining baking sheet of conchas.

Do ahead: Conchas can be baked 3 days ahead. Store tightly wrapped at 
room temperature.

Review: The first two times I've made these, I had bread flour, but 
no milk powder. And they turned out perfect! I read a review that 
said score the topping before the second rise, so that's what I've 
been doing and they turn out great. The third time I've made them 
(don't judge me, it's quarantine), I had milk powder, but only AP 
flour. And the dough was WAY too sticky. I added maybe a third of a 
cup of extra flour until the consistency looked right - and they 
turned out fine! The ultimate test was on Mother's Day when I 
presented these to my born-in-Mexico mom who immediately ordered a 
batch for the following week.

Review: I don't know what happened to my conchas, they spread out too 
much. They looked like concha cookies. I think that maybe I didn't 
weigh the flour correctly and put too little. They tasted really good tho.

Review: Definitely a project kind of recipe, but so worth it! I used 
oatmilk instead of whole, and buttermilk powder instead of nonfat dry 
milk powder, since that's what I had on hand. I did have some trouble 
with the topping-ended up using my hands (floured) instead of a pan 
because I couldn't get the topping off the plastic when I used a pan, 
and the topping separated a bit more than I think it was supposed to 
in the rising/baking process, but that was probably all user error. 
Regardless, they were delicious and I'm currently trying to resist 
the urge to stuff them all in my face.

Review: I have not eaten many conchas in my life, so I can't say 
these are the best ever, but eating a warm bun after a long day in 
lock-down was the little bit of joy that I needed. This was a 
project-y recipe, but the instructions are clear. The most difficult 
part is getting a method down for forming/placing the sugar coating 
on the buns (I used flour to keep the sugar discs from sticking to 
the plastic wrap, but I wish I would have also tried powdered sugar.)

Review: These were a fun project recipe and they turned out 
delicious! The internal temperature point was very helpful, I'd love 
to see this in more recipes. I would consider scoring the surface 
before their second rise. Mine turned out with much more ~natural~ 
looking cracks because the shells broke as the dough rose.

Review: These are fantastic. I've grown up eating conchas and some of 
my best memories are sitting with my grandma having pan de dulce with 
coffee in the morning. I have tried many several recipes to make 
conchas at home, but none have been quite right. Except for this one. 
They were fairly straightforward to make but absolutely delicious. 
They have a rich milky flavor and the topping isn't too sweet but 
full of flavor. The blend of white and chocolate is also just 
visually beautiful. I can't wait to make these over and over again 
for my family for years to come.

S(Internet address):
   https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/black-and-white-conchas
                                     - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Per Serving (excluding unknown items): 417 Calories; 21g Fat (46.0% 
calories from fat); 9g Protein; 48g Carbohydrate; 1g Dietary Fiber; 
121mg Cholesterol; 573mg Sodium.  Exchanges: 2 1/2 Grain(Starch); 1/2 
Lean Meat; 0 Non-Fat Milk; 4 Fat; 1 Other Carbohydrates.

NOTES : 2020 - 0801